The Giza Pyramids—the oldest wonder of the world—is said to be built in alignment with the stars, whether it's the Orion's belt or Kochab and Mizar. While the truth of the theory has often been disputed, for the fashion house Dior, the stars are part of the brand's history. The house's founder, Christian Dior himself, was said to have tripped on an object found on the rue du Faubourg Saint-Honoré before taking it as a sign to start the label-the object later known as his "lucky star". One autumn evening, the ancient monuments became the backdrop for Dior Men's Pre-Fall 2023 collection, a show as mystical as the history and inspirations behind the label.
Admittedly, since he took over the position of Dior Men's artistic director in 2018, Kim Jones' creative vision has not always translated well for the French fashion house. In some instances, Jones' aesthetic of street-meets-travel-meets-luxury can seem like an odd fit for the label's sleek glamour-but with this collection, Jones topped everything he has created for the label before.
Against the grand backdrop, 75 men clad in garments that veer between utilitarian and theatrical. Largely awash in cool grey and ivory, the pieces stood out amidst the desert's palette. The number itself is symbolic, as the show also marks the 75th year anniversary of the late Monsieur Dior's founding of the label.
 Dior Men's Pre-Fall 2023 Look 2/ Foto: Dior |
 Dior Men's Pre-Fall 2023 Look 5/ Foto: Dior |
Rather than playing with the rich symbolism the show venue provided, Jones instead looked to the past with the future in mind. "My interest in ancient Egypt is about the stars and the sky. It's that fascination with the ancient world and the parallels with what we look at today; what we inherited from them and what we are still learning from the past." stated Jones in the collection's official release. He continued, "It links to Christian Dior in that sense and by way of his fascination with symbols and superstitions that recur throughout his life and work, one of which is the star."
 Dior Men's Pre-Fall 2023 Look 6/ Foto: Dior |
 Dior Men's Pre-Fall 2023 Look 24/ Foto: Dior |
Dior's archival silhouettes are reinterpreted for the future in the collection. Take the billowing half-kilts inspired by the house's "Bonne Fortune" dress from the 1950s, or embellishments for the vests that call back to its famed "Junon" ballgowns, for example. Asymmetrical capes, sheer layering, dynamically-paneled tops, and draped coats lend the collection a chic feel. Paired with armor-like vests, space boots, and visored helmets, the runway feels as otherworldly as the pieces seem almost practical-practical for what? We can't answer, yet we welcome it. As the layers were blown in motion by the desert wind, the romantic futurist vision becomes more apparent.
 Dior Men's Pre-Fall 2023 Look 72/ Foto: Dior |
The collection also features pieces with the movements of distant stars printed on it—courtesy of NASA's telescopic images. As much as the collection takes inspiration from the past, the techniques employed are cutting edge; high-frequency neoprene paneling, injection moulding to anodized metal finishing. In an extravagant feat of connecting the label and his personal reference points, holding a show at the Giza Pyramids, and presenting an ultra-detailed level of luxury, Kim Jones managed to make the future exciting once again.
(alm/tim)